by Brian Maslach
German Engineering at its finest!
When I heard SRM was releasing a new pedal system in conjunction with Q36.5, I was intrigued. When I later learned these pedals didn't include a power meter, I was even more interested. After all, SRM is synonymous with on-bike power measurement, and they already had power meter road and MTB pedals on the market. SRM's founder, Uli Schoberer, pioneered cycling power meters, and the company is still the go-to choice for those who demand accurate and repeatable measurement. So, I wondered, if there's no power meter, what makes these pedals different?
Here's how SRM describes the pedals:
The SRM Ultra Low Profile Pedal is designed to create the most direct connection possible between rider and bike.By dramatically reducing stack height, the system places the rider closer to the pedal spindle for improved pedaling feel, enhanced stability, optimized biomechanics, and increased cornering clearance.
This sounds great, but what does it actually mean for the rider? I decided to try a pair to find out.
I've been running Shimano Ultegra SPD-SL pedals for 6 years and have been happy with them. In fact, I've had zero complaints. I only decided to try these new SRM Pedals based on my deep respect for Uli and knowing that he doesn't develop a product unless he can create a substantively better option. In other words, he's not going to release something simply for the sake of expanding his product lineup.
I previously used Speedplay Zero Pedals as they were recommended by a bike fitter, but switched to the Shimano because I wanted to go back to a more "locked in" feeling. These particular Ultegra pedals held up amazingly well over 6 years; they've never been serviced and their bearings still spin smoothly.
It's tough to beat the durability of Shimano Ultegra pedals. This pair has held up incredibly well for their mileage and still have plenty of life remaining.
The difference in feel between Shimano and Speedplay is similar to the difference between SRM and Shimano. The SRM pedals go the next step and give an even more locked in feeling. I can feel, and prefer, the difference in all riding conditions but it's most evident while standing on the pedals. I've never been a sprinter, but I almost get giddy when launching into a sprint on the SRMs due to feeling of oneness between my feet and the pedals. The pedal/cleat/shoe interface is unlike anything I've previously experienced. This is exactly how all contact points with the bike should feel: secure and natural.
What surprised me most wasn't the performance—it was how my body responded. I've been dealing with chronic knee pain for the past year despite strength training and over-the-counter anti-inflammatory medication. After just a few days of riding the SRM pedals, the pain was noticeably reduced. Now, after several weeks, I can do deep bodyweight and weighted squats without pain. I don't know whether it's the wider platform, the lower stack height (which effectively raised my saddle), a combination of both, or something else entirely. Whatever the reason, this unexpected benefit has me more excited to ride than any new bike could.
This shouldn't have come as a surprise as the SRM pedal system has over twice the contact surface of a Shimano Dura-Ace system, and, according to Shimano, Dura-Ace and Ultegra pedals offer practically identical contact surface area.
How did SRM build in so much more contact surface area? They widened and significantly lengthened the pedal body, and they moved the locking mechanism behind the load path, as opposed to Shimano pedals, which place the spring and locking mechanism directly beneath the load path, where your foot presses into the pedal. This allows the ultra-thin SRM cleat to sit entirely flat against a continuous 1,653 mm² metallic pedal interface.
That's a lot of contact surface area!
Due to its width, the SRM pedal also spreads the load across a significantly larger portion of the metatarsal area. I never felt my cleat rock side to side in my Shimano pedals, but I can feel the difference in stability with this new system. This wider base should reduce "hot spots," especially during long or high-intensity rides.
Unfortunately, I haven't been able to make a power output comparison since my power meter crank arms are being refurbished, but I'm eager to get them reinstalled to see whether my current wattage is up.
Aside from the cost ($600!), the biggest deterrent to switching to these pedals is that you either need to buy new, compatible shoes (Bont and Q36.5 have models designed for them, with other brands likely to join soon) or you need to drill a new hole in the soles of each of your shoes.
As with my Ultegra pedals, I've put a lot of miles on these Shimano shoes and they've held up incredibly well.
Since I'm on a budget, I elected to stick with my 7-year old Shimano RC901 shoes as their wide size fits my wide feet better than all other road shoes I've tried, and they are still in good shape. I was initially wary of drilling into their carbon soles, but after being sent a step-by-step video of the process by Daniel Gillespie at SRM, I felt more comfortable and gave it a shot. The process ended up being much easier than expected and I wouldn't hesitate to do it on a newer pair of shoes.
I outlined the position of my Shimano cleats with a permanent marker before removing them. I then carefully measured the recommended position for the new hole (and triple checked it before drilling). If you run Shimano cleats like me, the SRM cleat position should be in the same place for the most forward part. I then centered the rear of the cleat using the outline. At this point I drilled a small pilot hole, and then drilled the final hole using a 1/4" bit.
I was worried about drilling through the sole and possibly damaging the shoe's upper, so I put wooden shoe trees in before drilling to catch the drill bit. While they helped keep the upper away from the sole, the gap in the center of the shoe trees meant they couldn't stop the drill bit once it passed through the carbon sole. Luckily, I avoided any damage. If I were to drill another pair I'd look for a small block of wood to fit in the shoes to prevent the drill bit from reaching the uppers.
It seemed like a good idea, but the two forefoot wood pieces separate when the tree is squeezed into the shoe, which leaves a gap in the center - exactly where you'll likely be drilling.
The cleats were easy to mount once the additional hole was drilled in each shoe.I was a bit nervous about whether the holes were drilled in the correct location as I'm very finicky with the positioning of all my contact points with the bike. Minute differences in positioning often feel significant to me. Thankfully, I got their position perfect and they felt great on my first ride. I haven't made any changes to cleat position since I began riding them several weeks ago.
All bolted up and ready to ride!
With all the improvements over my prior pedals, I've been struggling to come up with things I don't like about these SRMs. I was going to note that they don't rotate into a consistent position when the cleats are not engaged for easy re-entry, but then I realized I hadn't followed the instructions printed on the pedals, which recommend placing a drop of oil on each seal. Lesson learned. I placed a drop of oil on each seal before my last ride and now they rotate to a tail-down position for easy re-entry.
Don't be like me - follow directions!
At this point, you'd be hard pressed to get me to give these up. Their price will undoubtedly turn away a lot of pedal shoppers, but if you're serious about performance they should warrant your attention.
